Tag Archives: Supplies

Rubber Cement and Glue

I came across an article yesterday regarding rubber cement and corsetry on sempstress.org. I was intrigued by this idea and could immediately see the benefit of gluing your pieces together prior to stitching. This was a particularly nice idea while my fingers are in the healing stages after padstitching multiple layers for my unboned velvet stays a la Eleonora di Toledo. Another of my many projects in the works is a Tudor corset, which I am machine sewing (my fingers are happy). I had Simplicity 2621 from my (technically unfinished) farthinggale project and I made a size 12 mockup rather quickly. With some modifications for back AND front lacing and boned tabs, it fit pretty well right away. Instead of padstitching, I am going to try the above mentioned rubber cement method to layer my fabric, buckram, cotton duck interlining, and cotton lining.

However, rubber cement is not the most period option, which led to me googling potato starch glues. While I didn’t find a whole lot of renaissance glue recipes (I did not search anywhere near hard enough), I did find a good selection of food based glues that I now want to try, especially since I don’t have rubber cement handy.

Grate a peeled potato in a bowl and add three spoons of water. After a few minutes, you can press it with a spoon so the potato starch is on the spoon. Then heat four spoons of the potato starch with four spoons of water until the mass thickens – but don’t let it cook! The potato glue dries yellowish and is suitable for paper works.

3/4 cup water
2 tablespoons corn syrup
1 teaspoons white vinegar
1/2 cup cornstarch
3/4 cup cold water

Mix water, syrup and vinegar in small saucepan. Bring to a rolling boil. In small bowl, mix cornstarch and cold water. Add this mixture slowly to first mixture. Stir constantly. Let stand overnight before using.

Powdered milk – 2 tablespoons
Hot tap water – 1/4 cup
Vinegar – 1 tablespoons
Baking Soda – 1/2 teaspoon

Mix powdered milk and some of the hot tap water (depending on the quantity of powdered milk used) and stir it well.
Add vinegar to milk. Milk will separate into solid yogurt and liquid whey. Stir till all the milk has separated completely.

Strain away the whey. Secure a paper towel with rubber band over the mouth of a large cup. Put the yogurt in it. Place another piece of paper towel on the yogurt and press it firmly so that, almost all of whey drains out from the yogurt.

Put the yogurt in a separate cup and break it into smaller lumps.

Add 1 teaspoon of hot water and ¼ teaspoon of baking soda. Some foaming may occur because the reaction of baking soda and vinegar releases carbon dioxide.

Stir the glue till it has an even consistency. Add water if it is too thick. If it is too lumpy add more baking soda.

Refrigerate it when not in use. Discard it when it starts smelling like spoiled milk.

1 cup boiling water
3 tablespoons white flour
4 tablespoons cold water
1 tablespoon sugar

1. Put boiling water in a pot.
2. Mix flour and cold water well. Use a whisk to get rid of any clumps.
3. Slowly pour the flour mixture into the hot water, mixing the whole time.
4. Turn on fire under the pot and heat until mixture thickens. Mix constantly. This should take only a minute or two.
5. Once thick, turn off fire and mix in sugar.
6. Transfer to a container for storage, and then put in the refrigerator.
7. Once cool, use as you would any other glue.



Corsetmakers Course II

I’ve decided to make 2 complete corsets. Now that I think I am on the right track, I am making another mockup, but this will be a permanent usable corset… A trial run, really. I dyed some white cotton duck to muddy brown which will be the “fashion fabric” of this corset. I’m using gold grommets and some orange poly cotton to line the corset. I will do external boning channels, but I don’t know yet how.

Last night I ordered a 12 inch busk and some extra grommets from Richard the Thread. Things I liked and didn’t like about this company:

Disliked:

  • They don’t have all busk sizes in every color
  • $35 minimum purchase
  • Shipping: shipping costs aren’t part of checkout, you have to wait until it is shipped and pay whatever the cost of shipping is.

Liked:

  • Grommets and busks  are a good price
  • awesome store and lots of stuff I want

Once my busk comes in, I can do a fitting. I think I need to add a gore to the hips — I chose to go with a smaller hip size (6) in order to use the gores in the hips. I will probably need a second gore.

IMAGE

Speaking of gores, I came up with a way to stitch my gores in that looks great and is durable. First I drew the seam allowance on the wrong side of the gore. When I reached the point where the two seam allowances intersect, I drew a straight line splitting the bottom space in half. I then stitched over these lines, from widest part to narrowest, including the line at the bottom. This way, the stitching didn’t just end at the tip unsecured.

To keep myself on track, I’ve made a list of the major steps of the process:

  1. Take measurements
  2. Do complicated math to calculate circumference of pattern
  3. Mark & measure waist (compare to above measurements & math)
  4. Mark & measure bustline
  5. Mark & measure hips
  6. Measure length of pattern, adjust if needed
  7. Make toile
  8. Fitting and adjustments
  9. Make corset
  10. Sew boning channels and waist tape
  11. Finishing touches