Category Archives: 16th Century

Magenta Faux-Silk Sottana

This gown began around June 2018 and is technically incomplete still (until I finish sewing the bodice lining in…someday). I used The Modern Maker 2 to design the pattern and as a basis for the padstitching methods, but it took me a long time to get through the padstitching. The back is pretty loosely padstitched, just to hold the layers together. I demonstrated the padstitching of the bodice as part of my A&S display at Pennsic 2018, which was surprisingly well received, despite the lameness of my “display” overall. It may not have caught the eye, but many people were happy to see exactly how padstitching worked

After the padstitching, I basted the outer fabric to the interlining and turned the edges to the inside and basted the edges down to the interlining. Next came decoration, which was the lacy looking gold trim, edged by gold cord on either side of the trim. I basted the lace trim, then whipstitched the cord onto the edge of the lace, attaching both at once. The basting thread was later removed.

The skirt was assembled next, also using TMM2 bara-based patterns. The skirt turned out a little long after I finished the padded hem and trim by machine, so I later added a tuck by hand.

And finally, here’s a bunch of pictures of the finished gown at Known World Costuming and Fiber Arts 2019. Photos by Kristen Hammock.

 

A few pictures from St. Eligius 2019:

And one more picture of the back of the gown at Castle Wars 2019 while presenting TRM Meridies with a gift from HRM East. I love this picture!



Revitalizing My Garb

It’s been a long summer battling depression and anxiety, but I have my mojo back! This week, I’ve gone crazy working to revitalize my garb for St. Eligius. It all started when I had to borrow the earring loops from my pearls for a vintage outfit. Then I had to look at paintings to decide on a new earring loop to mount the pearls on. This got me thinking about all sorts of accessories until my brain was ready to burst. I made a few trips to the crafts stores to find all the parts for my vision, but found all the things I wanted…but in silver, not gold. Cue the spray paint!

Gild all the things!

I removed the center of the medallion and pearls before spray painting, then used a wooden circle thingie to fill in the hole. I secured the wooden circle with glue and white fabric puff paint, then gilded the medallion again.

Making the medallion

I glued pearls back in the orignal spots, then added a ring of pearls over the puff paint. More puff paint was used to paint the center of the medallion.

Pearled and initial painting

I couldn’t leave well enough alone, so I added more pearls around the outer perimeter.

More pearls!

After the paint dried, I added another coat for more puff, and filled in the background. Two or three more coats later, it’s finished.

Finished medallion

Finished chain and hair ornament

The hair ornament was made at the same time and features pearlescent nail polish over white puff paint for the giant pearl look. These will be worn along with my usual necklace and earrings. I replaced the medallion on the necklace with an oblong pearl, and added decorative eyepins and bead caps to my pearls before threading them onto these earring loops. The earring loops were inspired by the painting below.

Necklace and Earrings

Jacopo Zucchi, Portrait of a Lady, 1560s, Indianapolis Museum of Art

After I finished all the jewelry modifications, I decided to dye a length of white silk habotai for a gold veil. The first attempt was too yellow. I added some orange and then it was too orange. I used color remover and the new veil was again too yellow. I threw a lighter gold silk chiffon veil into the dye bath and that one came out perfect!

Veils next to gold cord embellishment

The chiffon veil was washed and hung to dry, while I gave the habotai veil another dye bath. This time, it came out close to perfect. Again, I couldn’t leave well enough alone, so I decided to add lace to the edges before sewing a comb onto the back to attach to my hair.

Finished veil

In addition to all this, I also sewed some new lacing rings onto my gown to tie the sleeves to, and repaired my petticoat hem. Hopefully the final look is as impactful as I envision it.



Flocked Linen Sottana

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The Modern Maker 2 was released  at the beginning of March. I couldn’t possibly wait for my hard copy, so I bought the e-copy and immediately began drafting a new bodice according to the instructions. I decided it was time to use my properly aged flocked linen fabric for this new project. The fit turned out great – the best fitting sottana I’ve made to date. I look forward to making more garments with this book!